The history of rice in the Girona region dates back to the 14th century. Our ancestors wanted to make use of the marshes and wetlands of L’Empordà, formed by the mouths of three rivers, the Ter and the Fluvià, and to a lesser extent the Muga, for agricultural production. Indeed, until the 19th century, L’Empordà was the only rice-producing area in the principality. Unfortunately, the characteristics of the ancient varieties, which were likely to have had a high capacity for absorbing liquid, are unknown. This hypothesis is based on the proportions of rice and water or broth, of a pound of rice to a porró (a tradional wine pitcher) and a half of water (i.e., 400 g to approximately 1.5 litres) in the classic rice dish of Girona cuisine, arroz a la cazuela, which was usually quite soupy, and, also, on the idea that the rice had to be grenyal or al punt (al diente), so that it did not become overcooked and powdery.
Among the different varieties grown by the twenty or so farmers on around a thousand hectares, mainly in El Baix Empordà, the most important are the round-grain species, of the Bahía variety, although long-grain varieties are also gaining ground. The widespread passion for gastronomy has led to increased planting and testing of new varieties.
Today, rice paddies have become a feature of the landscape in the L’Empordà wetlands and added value for the natural parks of the marshes, in El Alt Empordà, and El Montgrí, Les Illes Medes and El Baix Ter, in El Baix Empordà. This is why these rice fields have been classified as agri-environmental crops. Month after month, the rice fields mark the rhythm of the seasons. In the cold months, the fields return to their original wetland state. Then, between the end of April and the beginning of May, with the paddies flooded, the planting is carried out. In the summer they become elegant, a domesticated landscape, which continues to ripen up to the autumn harvest, just before the cycle begins again.
Rice with the 2020-2021 Girona Excel·lent seal
Semi-long pearl rice
This rice grain, with a generous amount of starch, absorbs the juice very well during cooking, making it ideal for the traditional rice casserole, arroz a la cazuela. This variety of rice has been grown in an eco-friendly way by the Parals family. They have owned the historic rice mill in Pals since 1984, which is documented as far back as 1452.
Company: Arròs de Pals, SL
Semi-long grain crystal rice
This variety of semi-long grain rice absorbs less juice during cooking and maintains its firm texture, making it ideal for dishes in which the sauce is served on the side. As it is grown in areas that have cooler summers and lower latitudes, it ripens more slowly and it is more robust, meaning that once it is cooked, it retains its texture better.
Company: Arròs de Pals, SL
Brown rice
Brown rice is obtained from round-grain varieties. Once the outer husk has been removed, most of the bran, the pericarp and the skin are preserved. This rice is therefore a great source of fibre, E and B-group vitamins, and mineral salts, especially phosphorus and magnesium. Brown rice needs a longer cooking time than white rice.
Company: Arròs de Pals, SL
El jurat del
tast d’arròs.
Ma. Àngels Jacas
Cuinera del restaurant Merylou, de l’Escala
Paula Molés
Periodista especialitzada en gastronomia de Catalunya Ràdio
Encarni Fernández
Cuinera del restaurant El Celler de la Planassa, de Palamós
Yun Ju Choi
Cuinera del restaurant El Celler de Can Roca, de Girona
Joan Carles Sánchez
Cuiner del restaurant Es Portal, de Pals
